by: Marvin Westmore
THE WORLD HAS CHANGED – our clientele has changed!
We are now a Multi-Ethnic, Multi-Cultural Society of all Skin Types, Hair Types and Textures, Face Shapes and Skin Colors.
The premise of women using Makeup is to help make them look and feel Beautiful! To be Fashionable and stylish.
Makeup as a Consumer Product really took hold in the late 1920’s and early 1930’s as women wanted to emulate those glamorous women they saw in the Movies. These Silver Screen Beauty Queens set the Fashion and Beauty Pace. The Theatrical Makeup Products and Makeup Application Techniques of that era were also used –contouring, high lighting and shadowing, eyebrows, mascara, lips, & blusher. The 4 Eye shadow colors of that period were blue, green, lavender and brown – the technique to select the correct color to be used on the client’s eyes in those days was determined by her hair, eye and skin color. The Seven Face Shapes* were also created in 1935. We need to remember that at that time the Actresses; the role models for Beauty Makeup were all fair skinned Caucasians.
Years have passed and there have been many approaches to selecting makeup colors for the consumer – Summer, Spring, Fall & Winter, Morning, Noon and Night, Having your Colors Done – all of them primarily geared toward the Caucasian community. Where does that leave us today and the future with our multi-ethnic, multi-cultural Clients and our education so we can service and sell to them?
I have been very fortunate to have traveled nationally and internationally with film projects where I have been required to match the skin tones of all actresses & actors and all ethnicities in all makeup styles and fashions. Because of my Art background (I sketch, draw, paint & sculpt) and a makeup situation in my early days as a MP & TV Makeup Artist. I vowed to learn how to match all Ethnicities skin colors accurately so they would look and photograph naturally.
THE KEYS TO MY SUCCESS
1. Knowing that all Ethnicities have yellow ochre in their skin color – except blue-black African Americans.
2. I discovered in matching skin tones for the facially disfigured – post-op face-lifts, dermabrasions, bruising, burn scars, birthmarks etc.that under toners are not effective.
3. I match the foundation to the actual skin color
4. I match Concealors to the actual skin tone.
5. I use Colorless Translucent Face Powder – tinted or colored powders will change the foundation color altering the skins color and turning it orange.
6. It does not make a bit of difference what a persons face shape is – unless you are a plastic surgeon you can not change the face shape with makeup contouring. That goes for noses, chins etc.
7. The Fashionable Eye Shadow colors are selected based on the colors of the clients wardrobe using one of the 4 basic color harmonies, analogous, complementary, triadic and monochromatic. Otherwise you will have two color schemes – one on the body and one on the face.
8. Keep the Lip and Blusher Color in the same color family.
9. Eye Brows – Use a Eyebrow Pencil one shade lighter than the Brow Hairs and don’t forget to use hair-like strokes to fill in – natural looks better than smudges.
The biggest single piece of knowledge I have acquired over the years is that – All women want to have a personal makeup design just for them — they don’t want a “cookie cutter design” out of some magazine. The key is to help them look Healthy, Youthful and Attractive. Each of these last 3 words HEALTHY, YOUTHFUL and ATTRACTIVE combined have more value to a woman’s appearance and psych than all the Beauty in the World. A properly designed/applied Makeup that makes the Client look good and also makes her feel good is a winner
Marv Westmore, Founder & CEO
George Westmore Research Library & Museum